Note to family from Chame, 8,891 ft

I cannot believe it. I am actually writing to you both. Where to start? First it sounds that all is well with all the house hunting, car searching/ buying etc. Keep me informed!

Where to start? I am going to look for the actual itinerary sent to me ages ago and send it to you (should have done this before). Anyway, after a FANTASTIC tour around Katmandu and traditional Nepalese meal and dancing in the evening I was met by my porter and guide. The guide, I am very disappointed, hardly speaks any english ... I have been meeting people on the route the last couple of days and get some information. Anyway I thought I was doing very well on this bus (where I left my Nepal little guide book and diary behind!!!! sooh annorying) for about 4 hours and though I had it all under my belt. But, at Beshisahar we had to change and the three of us piled into a van. I am not kidding you there were about 14 - 16 people in it... no room for the guide and porter so they sat on top with the bags. What a ride! many folks got sick! I had a bit of space beside me so offered a little boy to sit beside me. After an hour or so he hollered something to his mom behind and proceeded to get sick, several times! Fortunately nothing landed on me. Everyone has little bags and then toss them out the window when done!

The trekking started on Sunday ... its another place this circuit..... villages in the mountains dotted throughout out trek. It is like going back in time. No radios, no cars, no tv, NO NUFFIN!! the folks are dressed in colourful traditional style, the women all gorgeous. The kids look after their younger siblings. Everyone is busy, washing clothes in a river or pond, and themselves beside waterfalls, etc. Men and women carry huge loads of wood on their back. The wood is cut the same size and stored outside their homes. Real order and total self esteem and true true joy and happiness as they go about their business. Men are often working in the mountains making bricks, sawing wood, making well made houses. During our trek we are met very often by donkies or ponies carrying stuff to the next village. The first few animals are all decked out in nepalese colours, pom poms and one or more of them carry a sort of gentle cow bell. I have met many folks, and the word NEMESTE (I salute the god in you) is exchanged, even by the little three year olds!

My impressions could go on and on, as you can imagine, but I am on paid time here.

The trekking itself has gotten, lets say challenging! breathing and going v e r y slowly is very important. We are in Chame now, about half way up on our upward journey and the last couple of days have been hard for me. Today when I arrived at yet another lovely tea house (I am in a separate cottage overlooking mountains) I was exhausted and my hip/right side of knee was dully painful. This is a given for me and I feel it sometimes at night. But as my doc says, with building up the quad muscles it hopefully will support me throughout! The pathways on the trek are all rough and so when walking even on a switchback I am very careful. Dont like to mention it. When we arrived for lunch at about noon today, after 3 hours of straight uphill I had a bit of a meltdown on my own as I lay on a bench outside the teahouse. Its this and the breathing and being constantly careful of movements which took its toll. I was not hungry but had some delicious fresh ginger tea and a couple of biscuits and my guide cut up some apples oranges and pomegranate seeds. I went to bed when we arrived at our destination here at Chame and slept for about an hour and did a bit of reading.

Outside there is a meeting of Maoists happening in the square! there are a few communists here in the area.

It is definitely Tibetan country here, prayer wheels and flags everywhere. I think of the Dalai Lama and feel so sorry that he cannot visit his beautiful beautiful homeland.

I SAW ANNAPURNA 11 for the first time as I came into Chame! Towering and beautiful covered with snow. Apparently it will be very visible in the early morning (tomorrow)

Last night I met a french gal who does not speak much english. We are meeting again for dinner this evening and she may join me for the hard part (the peak of Thrung La).

I have been having wonderful bowel movements until today.... little bit, shall I say, wathery? better be careful not to fart!!

Anyways, I will probably copy and paste this onto my blog.

I will call you (COLLECT) ON Monday or Tuesday, when I actually make the peak.

Lots of love. Miss you and feel your support.

Arran the head rest was fabulous for all my flights!

Dyane/ Mom