Saturday, December 27, 2014

Trip to Colca to see the condors




On December 23, I took an overnight bus from Cusco to Arequipa and booked into the Melgar Hostel near the centre square.  The next day, December 24, I bought another bus ticket with the Inca Travel Agency to ride with a group of other folks to the Colca Canyon to see the condors.  I was picked up around 8 a.m. The van climbed for hundreds of meters for 6 hours, past more post Colonial buildings and Inca ruins, into the dry and often arid desert areas in the Andes.  We passed many lamas grazing and indigenous peoples dressed in colourful skirts, blouses and wide brimmed hats.  Each small village seemed to have an identity of its own.  In some places the children were dancing, in other places Peruvian pan music was playing.  Our guide came from the Colcan region and was very knowledgeable and friendly.  We stopped often to take in the atmosphere and to look, sometimes buy their soft handicrafts.  We slept in three different small hotels in a place called Chiva.  On December 25, Christmas Day, we were picked up very early to drive to the condor viewpoint, peak 3800 meters.     Six of us hiked a short trail.  This was the highlight of the day, to spot one condor, then another, then another, fly high into the sky, soar effortlessly through the blue, embracing the sun's rays.  What a Christmas present!




Saturday, December 20, 2014

Four day Inca Trail hike to Machu Pichu



"The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (also known as Camino Inca or Camino Inka) consists of three overlapping trails: Mollepata, Classic, and One Day. Mollepata is the longest of the three routes with the highest mountain pass and intersects with the Classic route before crossing Warmiwañusqa ("dead woman"). Located in the Andes mountain range, the trail passes through several types of Andean environments including cloud forest and alpine tundra. Settlements, tunnels, and many Incan ruins are located along the trail before ending the terminus at the Sun Gate on Machu Picchu mountain. The two longer routes require an ascent to beyond 4,200 meters (13,800 ft) above sea level, which can result in altitude sickness."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inca_Trail_to_Machu_Picchu



December 14 – 18, 2014, the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Peru
These four days, trekking with a group of folks I had never met, has been a valuable experience. Even though I was the oldest in our group I felt part of a strong team.  In my various travels during the past few years, I have mostly been on my own.  For these four days it felt good to be part of a group, to be a fellow traveler.  I went on a four-day Inca Trail to Machu Pichu, Peru, as a sort of pilgrimage. I enjoyed the hours walking in the mountains and experiencing nature in the raw.  During this time we melded as a sort of family and each of us felt the support of the other.  I felt that walking long distance, climbing up and descending down this ancient trail with a small group of folks created a deeper relationship with self and with others.  Sharing one’s highs and lows on the same path helped any fears that may have arisen. Relying on the Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ guides’ advice along our journey created a sense of security.  Listening to their interpretation of the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ sites brought some knowledge and curiosity, and even a certain knowing.  Having had delicious meals served by gentle Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ porters brought forth, in return, our gentle gratitude and compassion.  I sometimes helped the Inca guides with their English, as they often did with my Spanish.  Other times I gave a neck and shoulder massage to a tired back. 

It was interesting that I was the only one of the group that did not get stomach sickness during these past few days!


Consider the mix, nine folks representing five cultures: Lithuania, Switzerland, Spain, Canada and Ireland!  Add nine indigenous porters, one cook, and two guides all representing the Inca or chuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ culture.  Different ages, cultures, personalities, thrown together, as it were, to physically and mentally survive the highs and the lows of the 48 k Inca Trail.   Different interpretations on same scenarios, many anecdotes, many laughs, many photos. I come away with precious memories.

***
Sunday, December 14, 2014 was Day One of my Inca Trail four-day pilgrimage!  I was picked up in a van at 5 a.m.  There were nine of us in the group.  Three from Lithuania. a mother in her sixties, her son in his forties, and his aunt in her fifties;  a professor from Spain, in his forties; two medical students, from Switzerland, in their twenties; two girls from Toronto, Canada in their twenties, and myself from Ireland/Canada/fresh from Mexico!   The nine of us and our two guides were driven in a van from Cusco forty-five minutes west along the Urubamba River to Ollantaytambo.  In the van I sipped on water from my flask, and breathed deeply, hoping that I was acclimatized sufficiently with being almost a week in the high altitude of 3,375 meters in Cusco.  We were deposited at the head of the trail in a place called Wayllabamba.  We were now at 3,000 meters or 9,840 feet.  To make our trek, or pilgrimage, official we stood for a group photo at the entrance of the ancient Inca Trail.  This was it!  We were in the Andes of South America and ready to hike the 84 kilometers of the Inca Trail through the mountains of the Andes to the sacred Machu Pichu site.






We were fortunate to have two dedicated, patient and empathetic tour guides.  Robert and Ever, both in their mid twenties, are indigenous Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ young men.  From the time they picked us up on day one from the hostel until they dropped us off back in Cusco on day four one or other guide was close by to walk with you, encourage you, talk with you, answer your questions, advise you.  It could be Robert or Ever at the top of every peak, arms in the air, hands clapping, waiting to congratulate your most recent achievement.  When we reached the top of the highest peak the guides presented us with a bottle of champagne.  I was invited to pop the bottle into the air then pour and distribute the champers to the rest of the group.  We all celebrated with hoots of laughter and joy to be alive!

With one guide in front of us and one at the back we went up and down the sometimes narrow, sometimes wide and often steep paths, hopping over or around tricky spots, bypassing or avoiding rocks and striding through lovely valleys eucalyptus and other trees, vines, orchids and many alpine type of small flowers.  The first day presented a challenging and focused combo of walking, climbing, scrambling, and descending towards our first stop in Llaqtapata.  Here was our first Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ site.  Llaqtapata, at 2, 650 meters or 7, 692 feet, and is at a lower altitude than at Cusco.  ‘Ever’, our ever mindful and intelligent guide, gave us his first of many explanations of the ways and means of the Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ culture.  The site at Llaqtapata is a huge amphitheatre of circular grassy fertile terraces.  I understand that these circular terraces, each supported by granite rocks, were set up centuries ago by the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/, for a highly successful agricultural existence. We looked above these terraces to the six to eight groups of carved and strategically placed to fit each other granite rock buildings. Each stone was shaped and placed in careful order by the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/, way back in the 12th, or 13th or perhaps in the 14th century, anyway before the Spanish conquest in the 15th century.  Ever and Robert explained that this and all sites in the Machu Pichu region have been cut by some black meteoric stone.  Each stone, or rock, each form, angle and configuration has a practical and perhaps an astrological or/and cosmological and definitely spiritual purpose.  Each of these granite stones has been dutifully designed to support and withstand the passage of time and natural shocks.  One wonders what important astrological, cosmological, eco agricultural and spiritual messages are in the design and placement of each Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ building site.   It is a shame that so much factual information is lost since the Spanish invasion into Peru in the 1500’s.




During the three days of trekking the Inca Trail one of our guides interpreted the meaning behind many sacred man-made sites in these remote Andes mountains.  The guides told us what was considered the meaning of and interrelationships of this man made phenomenon.  The configuration of stones, rocks, shadows, some showing the shape of a significant animal, especially the puma, the condor and the snake.  The guides explained the significance of a hole in a rock, or a slit, or an opening through which the angle of the sun’s rays shines through at a specific date and time every year. The angle and point of light landing on a flat floor in a circular room shows the season, the date and time. This information was vital information for the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ peoples for their physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing.  They programmed their annual planting and harvesting of the crops, and all aspects of their lives, around these signs and symbols.  We wonder what other secrets these sites could reveal. 

We saw that the buildings at the bottom of the circular terraces had rougher cut granite stone blocks.  These were where the farm workers lived.  The buildings at the top of the terraces were made with more sophisticated smoother granite stone blocks; they appeared to have a more conformed style.  These upper houses were for the higher-class agricultural organizers.  On the top of some of these Inca Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/  buildings we saw that there was a special carved out rock formation, often forming a dome. Inside these structures was a room with carved out alcoves. It is assumed that these places were designed for vital sacred activity.  When we were visiting these structures one of the guides showed us a unique Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/granite stone system which collected rain and mountain river water and channel it down through the terraced areas to irrigate the land tucked high up in the mountains of the Andes.

Onward and upwards we went, to our first campsite.  This was near to the Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ village of Wayllabamba.  We were now at 3,000 meters or 9, 840 feet.


The second day we were awoken at five in the morning in our respective tent by one of our ten porters.  I was fortunate to have a tent to myself.  Day 2, we were warned in advance, would be a real physical challenge, and it was!   We were to climb for six or seven hours from Wayllabamba at 3,000 meters or 9, 840 feet to Pacaymayo, at 3,600 meters or 11,808 feet.  To prepare us for this challenging day’s journey a hearty breakfast was served in a large tent to our group and two guides. The two tables we sat around at each meal were covered with brightly coloured Peruvian tablecloths.

The breakfasts, lunches and dinners were superb!  At each meal the Chef catered to the three of us vegetarians. We could not get over the quality and presentation of the dishes and we showed our gratitude to the Chef at each meal.   We continue to be amazed at the kindness and gentle attention of the porters and the Chef. 

Our nine porters and one Chef, after preparing our meals, ate their meal in a separate tent. When I think of what these porters and Chef, all in their 20s to 50s, receive in salary I wince!  Our collective tip, to be distributed to them at the end of our trip is paltry compared to the energies, effort and attention each porter and Chef gave to us for our four day Inca Trail hike.   

Each day the porters packed and unpacked our camping gear. They set up and dismantled our tents, blew air into our mattresses, closed the tent flap when rain was coming.  The Chef, helped by the porters prepared and served three meals a day. On the train each porter must have carried at least 150 pounds on his back, including tents, sleeping bags, mats, food, cooking equipment and the food for the four-day journey.  

Understandably, our breakfasts were our most important meal of the day.  They consisted of fruit juice, tea, cereal, and fruit, followed by an omelet with optional spicy sauce and smothered with diced vegetables, and other delicacies.  All this was accompanied by a plate of small pancakes and washed down with a cup of hot cocaleaf tea (which is illegal outside Peru!).  Lunches and dinners were also nourishing and delicious.  There was always too much to eat.  The porters and Chef, who would have finished their own bowl of soup or rice, ate our food that was left over.



  

We needed the sustenance of a good breakfast, especially on the second day, to reach the first pass called the “Warmiwanusca”, at 4,200 meters or 14,300 feet.  This is the highest peak of the Inca Trail.  I understand that it is also the highest pass in the western world.  As an aside, it feels good to think that, in 2010 I climbed to the highest pass in the eastern world, called “Thorong La”, in the Himalayas of Nepal!





Feeling relatively normally again, we climbed down from 4,200 meters or 14,300 feet to sleep in our freshly erected tent in Pacaymayo, at 3,600 meters or 11,808 feet.



It was a delicious dinner served from many plates and, once again we appreciated the attentions of our ever-energetic porters.  After sharing personal stories of our day’s experience we tumbled wearily but happily into our tent.  We were near Winaywayna, yet another Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ site.

The fourth day was the day we all were waiting for!  We trekked in total for about two hours.   Once again, we were awoken by one of our Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ porters. This time it was around 3:00 a.m.  They handed us, through the tent flap, a mug of hot coco leaf tea and a small packed snack for the trail.   Our backpack hanging from our shoulders, and hiking poles in hand, from Winaywayna at 3,640 meters or 11,930 feet towards Machu Picchu at 2, 450 meters or 7,875 feet.  Leaving our campsite at around 4:00 a.m. we walked about twenty minutes in the dark to a shelter and, at 5:00 a.m., along with many other trekkers, I stood and watched the sun rise over the great Machu Pichu mountain. At around 5:30 our small group started on a short hike that I will never forget!  Nine trekkers and two guides, we seemed to be as one.  The Machu Pichu mountain and the valley were on our right.  I thought that the birds above were chirping to us, “machupichu, machupichu!”.   In an amazing half-light and, still with our headlights on, we poled and panted through a cloud jungle forest towards the sacred Sun Gate called  “Intipunku”.  We solemnly filed under this arch on the path leading to our ultimate goal, the Machu Pichu mountain. On this our last day of our Inca Trail hike we climbed down from Winaywayna at 3,640 meters or 11,930 feet to Machu Pichu at 2,430 meters or 7,970 feet.






 







Our guides spent a couple of hours with us, leading us through the various levels of this fantastic site called Machu Pichu.
 Quechua machu old, old person, pikchu peak; mountain or prominence with a broad base, which ends in sharp peaks. …Often mistakenly referred to as the "Lost City of the Incas", it is the most familiar icon of Inca civilization.


I spent the afternoon walking about Machu Pichu with Raul, my new Inca trail friend, and soul mate. We walked and paused and reflected and talked as we moved in and around the ancient ruins. The mist and soft white clouds collected above the Machu Pichu and surrounding mountain peaks and gently landed their soft rains on us.  We both agreed that this was the perfect conclusion to our  Quechua Inca Trail experience.



Dyane Lynch
Cusco, Peru
December 20, 2014

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Cusco Peru, December 9, 2014

Mexico Airport December 8, 2014

Two hour floor sleepover in Lima airport!

Flying over the Andes Mountains

Getting close to Cusco

Bird's eye of Cusco

Of course, Starbucks Cusco!  yeah wifi! read the message of peace from the people ...

La Catedral de Cusco

Right now, from December 9 - January 26, Yours Truly is only one of the almost two million annual visitors to Cusco a city which is touted as 'a major tourist destination'.  Apparently Cusco has been designated as the Historical Capital of Peru by the Constitution of Peru.[1]    As many know, Cusco was the site of the historic capital of the Inca Empire and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1983 by UNESCO. 

Meantime, I am staying at the $6.00 a night Pakari Hostel near to La Catedral de Cusco!  the cost may suggest that the accommodation is, shall I say, basic!  The owners are Spanish speaking, only, but friendly and helpful.  The hostel is only 7 minutes from La Catedral and the Plaza De Armas.  Go down the steps and another 2 minutes to the Museo de Arte y Monasterio de Santa Catalina.  Go around this ancient building and up the stairs and here am I in Starbucks with me Wi Fi and looking out through the bars to La Catedra de Cusco!

Today I plan to go walking up the nearby hills behind the city to increase my five days of acclimatising before I join 5 or 6 other trekkers to walk the Inca Trail and we will also visit the Sacred Valley, and, of course, Machu Pichu.

Keep posted!