"The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (also known as Camino Inca or Camino Inka) consists of three overlapping trails: Mollepata, Classic, and One Day. Mollepata is the longest of the three routes with the highest mountain pass and intersects with the Classic route before crossing Warmiwañusqa ("dead woman"). Located in the Andes mountain range, the trail passes through several types of Andean environments including cloud forest and alpine tundra. Settlements, tunnels, and many Incan ruins are located along the trail before ending the terminus at the Sun Gate on Machu Picchu mountain. The two longer routes require an ascent to beyond 4,200 meters (13,800 ft) above sea level, which can result in altitude sickness."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inca_Trail_to_Machu_Picchu
December 14 –
18, 2014, the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Peru
These
four days, trekking with a group of folks I had never met, has been a valuable
experience. Even though I was the oldest in our group I felt part of a strong
team. In my various travels during
the past few years, I have mostly been on my own. For these four days it felt good to be part of a group, to
be a fellow traveler. I went on a
four-day Inca Trail to Machu Pichu, Peru, as a sort of pilgrimage. I enjoyed the
hours walking in the mountains and experiencing nature in the raw. During this time we melded as a sort of
family and each of us felt the support of the other. I felt that walking long distance, climbing up and descending
down this ancient trail with a small group of folks created a deeper
relationship with self and with others.
Sharing one’s highs and lows on the same path helped any fears that may
have arisen. Relying on the Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ guides’ advice along our
journey created a sense of security.
Listening to their interpretation of the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ sites brought some knowledge
and curiosity, and even a certain knowing. Having had delicious meals served by gentle Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ porters brought forth, in
return, our gentle gratitude and compassion. I sometimes helped the Inca guides with their English, as
they often did with my Spanish.
Other times I gave a neck and shoulder massage to a tired back.
It
was interesting that I was the only one of the group that did not get stomach
sickness during these past few days!
Consider
the mix, nine folks representing five cultures: Lithuania, Switzerland, Spain,
Canada and Ireland! Add nine
indigenous porters, one cook, and two guides all representing the Inca or chuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ culture. Different ages, cultures, personalities,
thrown together, as it were, to physically and mentally survive the highs and
the lows of the 48 k Inca Trail.
Different interpretations on same scenarios, many anecdotes, many
laughs, many photos. I come away with precious memories.
***
Sunday,
December 14, 2014 was Day One of my Inca Trail four-day pilgrimage! I was picked up in a van at 5 a.m. There were nine of us in the
group. Three from Lithuania. a
mother in her sixties, her son in his forties, and his aunt in her
fifties; a professor from Spain,
in his forties; two medical students, from Switzerland, in their twenties; two
girls from Toronto, Canada in their twenties, and myself from
Ireland/Canada/fresh from Mexico!
The nine of us and our two guides were driven in a van from Cusco forty-five
minutes west along the Urubamba River to Ollantaytambo. In the van I sipped on water from my
flask, and breathed deeply, hoping that I was acclimatized sufficiently with
being almost a week in the high altitude of 3,375 meters in Cusco. We were deposited at the head of the
trail in a place called Wayllabamba.
We were now at 3,000 meters or 9,840 feet. To make our trek, or pilgrimage, official we stood for a
group photo at the entrance of the ancient Inca Trail. This was it! We were in the Andes of South America and ready to hike the
84 kilometers of the Inca Trail through the mountains of the Andes to the
sacred Machu Pichu site.
We
were fortunate to have two dedicated, patient and empathetic tour
guides. Robert and Ever, both in
their mid twenties, are indigenous Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ young men. From the time they picked us up on day
one from the hostel until they dropped us off back in Cusco on day four one or
other guide was close by to walk with you, encourage you, talk with you, answer
your questions, advise you. It
could be Robert or Ever at the top of every peak, arms in the air, hands
clapping, waiting to congratulate your most recent achievement. When we reached the top of the highest
peak the guides presented us with a bottle of champagne. I was invited to pop the bottle into
the air then pour and distribute the champers to the rest of the group. We all celebrated with hoots of
laughter and joy to be alive!
With
one guide in front of us and one at the back we went up and down the sometimes
narrow, sometimes wide and often steep paths, hopping over or around tricky
spots, bypassing or avoiding rocks and striding through lovely valleys
eucalyptus and other trees, vines, orchids and many alpine type of small
flowers. The first day presented a challenging and focused combo
of walking, climbing, scrambling, and descending towards our first stop in
Llaqtapata. Here was our first
Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ site. Llaqtapata, at 2, 650 meters or 7, 692
feet, and is at a lower altitude than at Cusco. ‘Ever’, our ever mindful and intelligent guide, gave us his
first of many explanations of the ways and means of the Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ culture. The site at Llaqtapata is a huge
amphitheatre of circular grassy fertile terraces. I understand that these circular terraces, each supported by
granite rocks, were set up centuries ago by the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/, for a highly successful agricultural existence. We
looked above these terraces to the six to eight groups of carved and
strategically placed to fit each other granite rock buildings. Each stone was
shaped and placed in careful order by the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/, way back in the 12th, or 13th
or perhaps in the 14th century, anyway before the Spanish conquest
in the 15th century.
Ever and Robert explained that this and all sites in the Machu Pichu
region have been cut by some black meteoric stone. Each stone, or rock, each form, angle and configuration has a
practical and perhaps an astrological or/and cosmological and definitely spiritual
purpose. Each of these granite
stones has been dutifully designed to support and withstand the passage of time
and natural shocks. One wonders
what important astrological, cosmological, eco agricultural and spiritual messages
are in the design and placement of each Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ building site. It is a shame that so much factual
information is lost since the Spanish invasion into Peru in the 1500’s.
During
the three days of trekking the Inca Trail one of our guides interpreted the
meaning behind many sacred man-made sites in these remote Andes mountains. The guides told us what was considered the
meaning of and interrelationships of this man made phenomenon. The configuration of stones, rocks,
shadows, some showing the shape of a significant animal, especially the puma,
the condor and the snake. The
guides explained the significance of a hole in a rock, or a slit, or an opening
through which the angle of the sun’s rays shines through at a specific date and
time every year. The angle and point of light landing on a flat floor in a
circular room shows the season, the date and time. This information was vital
information for the Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ peoples for their physical, mental
and spiritual wellbeing. They programmed their
annual planting and harvesting of the crops, and all aspects of their lives,
around these signs and symbols. We wonder what other secrets
these sites could reveal.
We saw that the buildings
at the bottom of the circular terraces had rougher cut granite stone
blocks. These were where the farm
workers lived. The buildings at
the top of the terraces were made with more sophisticated smoother granite stone blocks; they appeared
to have a more conformed style.
These upper houses were for the higher-class agricultural
organizers. On the top of some of
these Inca Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ buildings we saw that there was a special carved out rock
formation, often forming a dome. Inside these structures was a room with carved
out alcoves. It is assumed that these places were designed for vital sacred
activity. When we were visiting
these structures one of the guides
showed us a unique Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/granite stone system which
collected rain and mountain river water and channel it down through the
terraced areas to irrigate the land tucked high up in the mountains of the
Andes.
Onward
and upwards we went, to our first campsite. This was near to the Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ village of Wayllabamba. We were now at 3,000 meters or 9, 840
feet.
The
second day we were awoken at five in the morning in our respective tent by one
of our ten porters. I was
fortunate to have a tent to myself.
Day 2, we were warned in advance, would be a real physical challenge,
and it was! We were to climb
for six or seven hours from Wayllabamba at 3,000 meters or 9, 840 feet to
Pacaymayo, at 3,600 meters or 11,808 feet. To prepare us for this challenging day’s journey a hearty
breakfast was served in a large tent to our group and two guides. The two
tables we sat around at each meal were covered with brightly coloured Peruvian
tablecloths.
The breakfasts, lunches and dinners were superb! At each meal the Chef catered to the three of us vegetarians. We could not get over the quality and presentation of the dishes and we showed our gratitude to the Chef at each meal. We continue to be amazed at the kindness and gentle attention of the porters and the Chef.
Our nine porters and one Chef, after preparing our meals, ate their meal in a separate tent. When I think of what these porters and Chef, all in their 20s to 50s, receive in salary I wince! Our collective tip, to be distributed to them at the end of our trip is paltry compared to the energies, effort and attention each porter and Chef gave to us for our four day Inca Trail hike.
Each day the porters packed and unpacked our camping gear. They set up and dismantled our tents, blew air into our mattresses, closed the tent flap when rain was coming. The Chef, helped by the porters prepared and served three meals a day. On the train each porter must have carried at least 150 pounds on his back, including tents, sleeping bags, mats, food, cooking equipment and the food for the four-day journey.
Understandably, our breakfasts were our most important meal of the day. They consisted of fruit juice, tea, cereal, and fruit, followed by an omelet with optional spicy sauce and smothered with diced vegetables, and other delicacies. All this was accompanied by a plate of small pancakes and washed down with a cup of hot cocaleaf tea (which is illegal outside Peru!). Lunches and dinners were also nourishing and delicious. There was always too much to eat. The porters and Chef, who would have finished their own bowl of soup or rice, ate our food that was left over.
We needed the sustenance of a good breakfast, especially on the second day, to reach the first pass called the “Warmiwanusca”, at 4,200 meters or 14,300 feet. This is the highest peak of the Inca Trail. I understand that it is also the highest pass in the western world. As an aside, it feels good to think that, in 2010 I climbed to the highest pass in the eastern world, called “Thorong La”, in the Himalayas of Nepal!
Feeling relatively normally again, we climbed down from 4,200 meters or 14,300 feet to sleep in our freshly erected tent in Pacaymayo, at 3,600 meters or 11,808 feet.
It
was a delicious dinner served from many plates and, once again we appreciated the
attentions of our ever-energetic porters. After sharing personal stories of our day’s experience we
tumbled wearily but happily into our tent. We were near Winaywayna, yet another Inca or Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ site.
The fourth day was the day we all were waiting for! We trekked in total for about two hours. Once again, we were awoken by one of our Quechuan /ˈkɛtʃwən/ porters. This time it was around 3:00 a.m. They handed us, through the tent flap, a mug of hot coco leaf tea and a small packed snack for the trail. Our backpack hanging from our shoulders, and hiking poles in hand, from Winaywayna at 3,640 meters or 11,930 feet towards Machu Picchu at 2, 450 meters or 7,875 feet. Leaving our campsite at around 4:00 a.m. we walked about twenty minutes in the dark to a shelter and, at 5:00 a.m., along with many other trekkers, I stood and watched the sun rise over the great Machu Pichu mountain. At around 5:30 our small group started on a short hike that I will never forget! Nine trekkers and two guides, we seemed to be as one. The Machu Pichu mountain and the valley were on our right. I thought that the birds above were chirping to us, “machupichu, machupichu!”. In an amazing half-light and, still with our headlights on, we poled and panted through a cloud jungle forest towards the sacred Sun Gate called “Intipunku”. We solemnly filed under this arch on the path leading to our ultimate goal, the Machu Pichu mountain. On this our last day of our Inca Trail hike we climbed down from Winaywayna at 3,640 meters or 11,930 feet to Machu Pichu at 2,430 meters or 7,970 feet.
Our guides spent a couple of hours with us, leading us
through the various levels of this fantastic site called Machu Pichu.
Quechua machu old, old person, pikchu peak; mountain or prominence
with a broad base, which ends in sharp peaks. …Often mistakenly referred to as
the "Lost City of the Incas", it is the most familiar icon of Inca civilization.
I spent the afternoon walking about Machu Pichu with Raul, my
new Inca trail friend, and soul mate. We walked and paused and reflected and
talked as we moved in and around the ancient ruins. The mist and soft white clouds
collected above the Machu Pichu and surrounding mountain peaks and gently landed
their soft rains on us. We both
agreed that this was the perfect conclusion to our Quechua Inca Trail
experience.
Dyane Lynch
Cusco, Peru
December 20, 2014
